• Wire color to color. If the cable you are extending has 4 conductors… red, black, white and green… make sure to use a cable that has the same colors. There’s nothing worse than trying to troubleshoot an issue and finding red and black used on the device and green and white used at the panel. Always match color to color.
• Make connections with the proper connector. If you are splicing large cables, use wire nuts. If you are splicing small cables use B-connectors. Never just twist wires together and tape around them. They will always make their way apart and cause troubleshooting nightmares.
• Tape around your splice. If you see a bundle of cables that were spliced, it looks bad enough with a bunch of electrical tape. What looks worse is a large splice with the connectors exposed. Not only does it look unprofessional, it also is more likely to have connectors pulled off or worse fall off. Always tape around splices.

Ideally, you don’t want to make splices. Sometimes you have to. If you have to, make them as professional as possible.

Thanks for reading and I welcome your comment!

So what’s the difference between MBS (Magnetic Bond Sensor) and DSM (Door status monitor)?

DSM senses when the door is closed whether it is locked or not. These are commonly used for alarm systems, access control systems or any other type of system that would require knowing if the door is closed or not.

MBS is used on a maglock or magnetic lock. This sensor senses if the armature (the piece on the door) is magnetically bonded to the coil or lock which is mounted to the door frame. This would be used in a higher security situation where it would be more important to know if the door is locked rather than just closed.

www.SecurityTechSupport.com

in reference to: YouTube – 481.How combination locks work — BestofYouTube.com (view on Google Sidewiki)

If you’ve done any service work at all, you’ve probably had the following happen to you:

• Client has a problem so you want to get that problem fixed as quickly as possible
• While you go to the head end to identify the equipment in question and trace down cables, the client comes up to you and says the problem is fixed

Ok. So what did you do? All you did was tug on a few cables and unplug a few plugs trying to identify the equipment you were sent there to fix. In reality what you did was reset some widget or re-connect a loose wire that was barely hanging on… you did all of this without knowing what you were doing.

So what now? The symptom is no longer present and you don’t know what you did to fix it. That is worse than not fixing it at all. Now when you leave the site, after your an hour into your next call, the first client calls back and says their widget is not working again!

Unless what you are servicing is a very cut and dry issue… let’s say the maglock armature fell off of the door… you need to think about the problem first before you touch anything. Especially if this is an intermittent issue and you just so happen to be there while it’s happening. Look at all parts of the issue… could it be software related? Check  programming and pull reports to see. If you know for sure that it is not software related, look at other areas. Could it be with cabling, boards or hardware? The idea is to try and figure out what the “problem” is that is causing the “symptom” before performing a kamikaze attack on the equipment.

Most of service is using that thing between your ears and not the things at the end of your arms!

Check out the link at the bottom of this article.

Ever been confused about OHMS law? This video makes it extremely easy.

I= V/R

I= current
V=voltage
R=resistance

Leave a comment if you’ve got a question or additional information. Thanks!

in reference to: Make: Online : MAKE presents: Ohm’s Law (view on Google Sidewiki)

Sometimes when there’s an issue such as “a door will not lock”, multiple things could go through your mind as you are driving to the site as far as what the problem may be. Could be a software issue… a power supply issue… a wiring issue… could be a lot of things. Before diving into one of these possibilities, you need to look at the obvious things first.

Before doing anything and touching anything, just look at the door to see if there are any obvious things going on. Are there any obstructions keeping the door from closing? Look around the door frame. Sometimes you’ll see a piece of trash or something keeping the door from closing. Another big issue with maglocks is the door closer. Is the closer pulling the door fully closed? When door closers get old and worn out, the quit closing a door all of the way… especially the internal closers. I just recently had an issue with a magnetic lock that wouldn’t secure. When I looked at the lock I found that a piece of weather stripping had worked it’s way between the maglock and the armature. I basically moved the weather stripping back in place and the door now secures.

Look at other things also like exit buttons. Is there a release button at a receptionist desk that might be stuck in? I had to work on a maglock that would not secure. I didn’t follow my own advice and went directly to the power supply and controller. I metered the power supply and it showed the correct voltage. I looked at the controller and found that the relay was not energized (which means it should be locked). Everything showed that the door should be secure. I went back to the door and found that an exit button on the wall was stuck in. They had some construction recently and dry wall dust covered the button and must have gotten into the moving part of the button because it made it stick in… it would usually spring out. I cleaned up the button and it worked fine. I could have saved myself around 15 minutes or so if I had checked the obvious things first.

One very important thing about easy fixes. Don’t make fun of your customer because they did not find the obvious problem. I’ve seen a lot of techs do this and it produces some unhappy customers. Just simply fix the issue and take the time to educate the customer. Show them things to look for for future problems they might have.

The first step of any troubleshooting should be to look for the obvious things first. If you find no obvious issues, it’s then time to dive into the more in depth possibilities that could cause the issue.

Please leave a comment if you have any questions or information to add to this subject. Thanks for reading.

I drove 2 and a half hours to get to the site and what I found was a simple problem that should have been taken care of at the original installation. The maglock was being powered by an Altronix power supply. That Altronix power supply was being powered by a plug in transformer which was plugged into a power strip. So far everything is correct except for one thing… the plug in transformer was unplugged from the power strip. It looked like it had fallen out… maybe the cabinet it was plugged into had gotten bumped or whatever. Since you can’t screw a plug in transformer into a power strip, the next best thing is to secure it with a tie wrap. Just take a long tie wrap (maybe put 2 or 3 together to make a long one… doesn’t look good but it works!) and run it around the transformer and the power strip. That way the transformer is tied directly to the power strip.

This was an easy fix but should have never happened.

Thursday 12/10:
11am EST
Meeting #  7760713
Introduction to IP Video
This webinar will cover the basics of TCP/IP and IP video; we will cover the
HD4DIP fixed and the Acuix IP PTZ camera setup using the Honeywell IP
Utility.
REGISTER NOW

Monday 12/14:
11am EST
Meeting #  7760713
Basics of Rapid Eye/Fusion
This webinar will go over the basic installation, connections, setup, and camera
configuration of both the RapidEye and fusion DVRs.
REGISTER NOW

Friday 12/18:
11am EST
Meeting # 9257188
Introduction to Access Control
This webinar defines electronic access control, its basic parts and layout, as
well as the process flow of a card-read at a reader. An open Q&A session
follows immediately afterwards.
REGISTER NOW

Be sure to check out the Discover web site to get the latest Knowledge Series Webinar schedule.

Important Instructions for a Successful Webinar
Please ensure you follow our recommended procedures that follow.
You will need the following to fully participate in the training:
*    Access to the Internet and a web browser to connect to the visual portion. A minimum connection
speed of 56K baud and minimum screen resolution of 600×800 is recommended (1024×768 is
preferred).
*    A separate voice phone line and phone to dial in to the audio portion (not necessary if using VoIP).
To attend our webinars, follow these few easy steps:
1.    At least 15 minutes prior to the start of the event, login to www.genesys.com.
2.    Select “Participant” button located in center of screen.
3.    Enter the meeting # (located under the date of the meeting above).
4.    Select “Join Meeting as Participant.”
5.    Note: You may have to wait for meeting to start to continue.
6.    Select one of the “Voice Access Options”:

a.
Dial Me Now: Meeting center software calls you back to connect you automatically to the
telephone bridge. You must be able to answer your own phone.
This is the preferred method.
b.
Already Dialed In: You have already joined the audio meeting portion. Step 9 is required.
c.
Dial In Now: You have not joined the audio meeting portion yet and need the telephone
number provided to you. Step 9 is required.
d.
Connect via Desktop VoIP.
7.
8.    Select “Join Meeting” button.
9.    Meeting will begin.
10.    Once you are in the meeting, press *21043* on your phone to join your voice and web connection.
Not on the web?
Telephone-ONLY access:
1.    Dial the toll-free number or the number closest to your location:
1 334 323 3033
1 800 490 7515
2.    If prompted, enter the Meeting Number: for example *7760713*
(Be sure to enter the * star key before and after the Meeting Number)

© Copyright 2009 Honeywell International Inc.

Honeywell Security Group • 2700 Blankenbaker Parkway • Louisville, KY 40299
www.honeywell.com/security

We know how important the ability to anticipate, well in advance, any changes in the availability or reparability status of your AMAG Technology equipment is to your long range planning. That’s why we’ve established a policy of giving you advance notice of the end of the life of our products.

Effective on the dates indicated below, each of the listed products has reached the end of life and is no longer available.  If you have current outstanding quotes for these items, please contact your Regional Sales Manager for alternative solutions.

Product

AMAG Symmetry M2100 1DCR

End of Life Date

December 1, 2009

Part Numbers

M2100-1DCR-KIT
M2100-1DCR-PKG

Keep in mind that you can integrate our latest generation of Symmetry M2150 intelligent controllers or our Symmetry Edge Network (EN-1DBC) PoE controller with our previous generations of multiNODE controllers on the same system.

No customer shall be left behind!

Products reach the end of their useful life for a variety of reasons. These reasons include lack of continued support by outside suppliers, unavailability of components, and reduced reliability, as well as the obsolescence of the technology and level of functionality offered by the product.

Should you need assistance, please contact your AMAG Regional Sales Manager or the Customer Service Department at 800-880-9138.

Thank you for your continued support

• Height- Sometimes when customers want cameras installed, they think that higher is always better since the higher the camera is installed, the more it will view. Make sure that you know what the camera is supposed to view before deciding on the height. If the camera is to view a door and the people who walk through it, you want to set the camera low enough to view the persons face and not the top of their head. You also want to make sure that a camera is not installed too low. If the camera is installed low enough for someone to reach from just standing, you may have a problem with vandalism or someone purposely blocking or re-aiming a camera.
• Accessibility- This is usually something that isn’t thought of until the camera needs to be serviced for the first time. When a camera is initially installed, you usually have more access to a camera since other cameras may be installed at the same time requiring a lift or extension ladder. Once a camera needs to be service, a lift will be needed again. Lift rentals (unless your company has its own) are usually between $250 and $600 per day. If a camera needs to be sent to the manufacturer for repair, that will be 2 days of lift rentals… one to remove the camera and one to reinstall it. As you can see, this can make for an expensive service call. If a camera can be installed without the need for special equipment that is preferred.
• Waterproofing- Anytime cameras are installed where they are exposed to rain, care needs to be taken to seal the camera. On wall mount cameras, I will put a bead of silicone around the top half of the camera where it meets the wall. This way any water running down the wall will just run over the camera and not into it. I will also put a bead of silicone around any seams in the top half of the camera that looks like it may allow water to enter.
• Connectors- BNC, power, data and network connectors need to be protected from the elements as well as from being pinched  or bent to fit into a splice box. These connectors are what connects your camera to the wiring that makes its way back to the head end equipment.  Where the connectors will be housed is usually an after thought when installing a camera. Some cameras have a place to put connectors and some cameras do not. If you are installing a camera that you have no where to house the connectors, you may need to install a small junction box near the camera. A small junction box is also useful in troubleshooting and aiming a camera since you have access to the power and video at the camera without having to remove the camera.
• Coverage- When placing a camera, you need to know what view is being desired. Just like most other security equipment, if you try to cover too much with one piece of equipment, your usually not covering anything sufficiently. Customers who are having cameras installed usually have a primary target they are desiring to be covered with the camera. Usually in the same area there are secondary targets they would also like covered. If you have to zoom a camera all they way out to cover both targets, that is great. But when you zoom all the way out, you are also getting less detail in the camera. Make sure the customer knows this before making the install permanent. Sometimes the best solution is to install a second camera to cover both targets.
• Cable protection- Anytime cameras (or any other equipment) are installed, you need to run cable to them. It is always desirable to have no cables exposed. This is not always possible though. If cables need to be run where they are exposed to the elements or people, they need to be in some type of conduit. What type of conduit really depends on local electrical codes. This conduit has 2 main benefits. The first is cable protection… this is the obvious. The second benefit is a professional looking installation. I had to service some cameras once on top of a hotel and the install company that put them there just draped the cables across the roof. This looked very unprofessional and also exposed the cables to the elements. The sun will damage cables over the years by drying them out and then cracking them. Then the rain comes and you have all sorts of problems. Always put cable protection in your quotes. This will lessen future service calls and provide a professional installation.

Well, the above is a start. Each bullet point could have it’s own article and there are plenty of other tips that we could of added. That’s for the future. Just keep checking our website for more tips like this.